Forty-five minutes from downtown Lisbon is a fairy tale town and the summer residence of Portuguese kings and the Moorish lords of Lisbon before them. Byron stayed in Sintra in 1809, proclaimed it the most delightful village in Europe. Sintra, poetically translated 'Mountain of the Moon', is described by Lord Byron as a "glorious Eden", containing beauties of every description, natural and artificial. Palaces and gardens rise in the midst of rocks, cataracts and precipices; convents sit on stupendous heights; distant views embrace the sea and the River Tagus. Whitewashed red-clay roofed houses are studded with tiles and overlook a series of green and wooded ravines. Small isolated beaches carved out of deep green bluffs punctuate and area; and tiled fountains bring water from nearby mountain springs. Sintra's cool summers and wet, fogy winters resemble the climate of Northern California. It unites in itself wildness of the Western highlands with the lush greenery of the south of France.

At Sintra, a winding road runs past a beautiful park into the center of old town (Palacio Nacional), inviting visitors to explore at a leisurely pace. There are really three Sintra villages: Sao Pedro de Sintra (the highest), Santa Mario (halfway up) and Sintra itself (the old town).

Medieval Castles are Museums and Romantic Getaways

Palacio National, a twin-chimney building, imposes itself in the center of town. This medieval site is a blend of Moorish and Gothic architecture and was once the summer residence of the House of Avis, Portugal's royal lineage. Today it's a museum offering guided tours daily. In the square, horse drawn carriages offer honeymooners a romantic way to see the town.

Hikers will enjoy the invigorating sixty-minute climb from the town to the ruins of a Moorish medieval castle. Stunning views from the walls encompass Cascais to the west and Peniche and the Berlenga islands to the north. The view from the gardens of Hotel Palacio de Seteais is intoxicating. Built in the last quarter of the 8^th century by the Dutch Consol in Portugal, this neoclassical palace is known for its numerous fresco paintings by artists of the French Pillement school.

Perched on top of one of Sintra's hills is Pena Castle, an enchanted site built in 1840 Gothic style. Take a cab or bus up the steep, scenic winding road. The palace -- one Americans might envision in Disneyland -- is surrounded by a gorgeous park blooming with trees and flowers brought from every corner of the Portuguese Empire by Dom Fernando.

Exotic gardens at the Monserrate Palace are another reason Sintra is an enchanted land, perfect for stirring the romantic soul. The locals may recommend a number of restaurants, one of which is Tulhas Bar and Restaurante, where the proprietors become intimately acquainted with their dinner guests. Their regional specialties will please the most particular of palates.

About five miles from the center of town along the same road that leads to the Palace de Pena is the Convent of the Capucins, dating from around 1560. The rather stiff admission charge shouldn't discourage adventure travelers from exploring this mysterious site. It's important to stay with someone who knows their way in and out, as the wandering path inside is not marked.

There is nothing ordinary about Sintra, especially its museums. Not only does Sintra have a permanent collection of international contemporary art in its grand Museu de Arte Moderna; it also has a Toy Museum (Museu do Brinquedo) with toys collected for more than 50 years by Joao Arbues Moreira. Among Sintra's four newest museums is the Museu Do Humor featuring a collection of amusing cartoons and caricatures.

The Quinta Da Regaleira, another monument of amazing imagination is a converted historic and cultural meeting point that is open to the local community and to visitors. It can be seen only by guided tour, and visitors are advised to book tours in advance.

A Small Village Captivates Visitors

It's quite remarkable how this small village affects its visitors, and it is impossible to describe its captivating beauty. It's easy to see why UNESCO recently declared this town as a World Heritage Site. Since most never want to leave this lovely place, Sintra offers its visitors many luxurious options for extending their stay. On the road to Colares is Quinta de Capela, a Manor House surrounded by the Sintra hills. Every rooms has a panoramic views of the romantic Palace of Monserrate and its botanical gardens, the lush vegetation of the Serra, the ancient Moorish Castle, and the royal Pena Palace. (insert manor house link)

Luxurious, five-star hotels are to 'to sigh for'. . . especially at the Palacio de Seteais (Palace of Seven Sighs). It's beautiful setting atop one of Sintra's many hills was selected by the Dutchman who built it in the 18th century. Its decor and appointments are nothing short of exquisite, and the front entrance opens to a view of the Pena Castle. With only 30 rooms, a stay is quite expensive, but according to many, priceless. "Every time we stayed there, declared one very satisfied husband, "my wife let out at least sixteen sighs."

After a 38-year sabbatical, Sintra's celebrated Hotel Lawrence, five stars, has also reopened its doors. Founded in 1764 by Jane Lawrence, the hotel's guest list includes Lord Byron and Portuguese novelist Eca de Queiros.

Caesar Park, another five star hotel, is an exclusive resort offering a unique combination of comfort, historical patrimony, and protected landscape. This prime real estate has its own 18 hole golf course designed by Robert Trent.

In the southern part of Sintra is Cabo da Roca (Cape of the Rocks), the westernmost point of Europe, where, several hundred feed beneath towering cliffs, churning ocean attracts surfers from all over Europe.

Commuter trains reluctantly leave the Rossio station at the bottom of the Avenida da Liberdade. The Rossio station is quite a site in itself. A series of escalators lifts rail travelers to the ticket area, where they exit into a vast, unexpected cathedral space-- the boarding area. The very comfortable rail excursion from Sintra to Lisbon takes about an hour, departing four times each hour. As passengers exit the tunnel, they see an ancient aqueduct, still laboring to bring water to Lisbon. This is the Aguas Livres Aqueduct, built in the 18th century, which withstood Portugal's earthquake and has supplied the city with water ever since.

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