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Museu da Fundacao Calouste Gulbenkian (Lisbon) The most famous museum in the country, its namesake was an Armenian oil czar, whose fortune derived from a 5% royalty on most of the oil pumped out of Iraq. His eclectic collections of Asian and European sculpture, paintings, antique coins, carpets, and furniture are on display in a modern compound with a lush garden. National Coach Museum (Lisbon) Founded by Queen Amelia in 1904 on the premises of the riding school of the Palacio do Belem, it contains dozens of magnificent state carriages. The Palacio itself is the official home of the Portuguese president. National Museum of Ancient Art A great contrast, the houses the country's greatest collection of paintings. It occupies a 17th century palace and an added edifice that was built on the site of the old Carmelite Convent of Santo Alberto. The convent's chapel, preserved, is a good example of the integration of ornamental arts, with gilded carved wood, glazed tiles, and sculpture of the 17th and 18th centuries. The museum also exhibits a remarkable collection of gold-and silversmiths' works, both Portuguese and foreign. The cross from Alcobaca and the monstrance of Belem, constructed with the first gold brought from India by Vasco da Gama. Another exceptional example is the 18th century French silver tableware ordered by Jose I. Two excellent pairs of screens depict the Portuguese relationship with Japan in the 17th century. National Museum of Medieval Art (Lisbon) The country's best collection of Portuguese primitives, as well as gold and silver plate crafted from raw materials mined in India, are displayed at the 17th-century palace of the counts of Alvor. National Museum of Modern Art (Porto) For less than $5 admission, visit the National Museum of Modern Art, an outpost of culture in Porto. It occupies a new building in a 44-acre park next to the sherbet-pink art deco mansion where the collection was formerly displayed. The building is Portugal's finest example of 1930's art nouveau. The museum exhibits the work of an exemplary coterie of contemporary Portuguese painters, designers, and sculptures. It's worth the time to wander through the sculptured gardens, along with their fountains. There's even an old farmland tumbling down toward the Douro. Maritime Museum (Lisbon) The most important maritime museum in the world is in the west wing of the Jeronimos Monastery. Royal galleons dripping with gilt and ringed with depictions of saltwater dragons and sea serpents are typical of its thousands of displays. Museu Machado de Casto (Coimbra) This museum has the world's largest inventory of sculpture by the 18th century master Machado de Casto. A worthy collection of religious sculpture is also housed here. The setting was originally conceived as an archbishop's palace in 1592. Museum of St. Francis (Porto) The sacristan at the Museum of St. Francis estimates that 30,000 human skulls have been interred in the cellars. This dank building was once the burial ground for rich and poor. Now it's a catacomb unique in Portugal. There are paintings, including one of St. Francis of Assisi worshiping Christ on the Cross. Curios include some of the first paper money printed in Portugal, and an 18th century ambulance that was really a sedan chair. The Sala de Sessoies, built in rich baroque style, is now a meeting hall with a Louis IV table and Joao V chairs. The painted eyes of framed bishops follow you wherever you go in the room. Portugal's Cultural Gems in Fuzeta The Santo Cristo Church and next-door museum are some of Portugal's finest cultural gems. Seventeenth-century tiles in Arab-style geometrical patterns cover most of the church in dazzling blue, yellow, and white. One of three 17th-century carved wooden figures is a rare example of a sitting Christ. The museum is a treasure trove of artifacts ranging from the Stone Age through Roman, Visigothic, and Moorish times to a remarkable display of 18th-century nativity figurines. Everything in this museum was collected by a local Portuguese priest. The curator speaks several languages besides Portuguese and is willing to conduct walking tours. |