Pastoral Landscapes Make Romantic Artist's Honeymoon Retreat

Between Estremoz and Redondo is the Convento de Sao Paulo Historical Pousada, located on the slopes of Portugal's Ossa mountain range. Built in 1376 by monks seeking a place of prayer and spiritual peace, this medieval monastery is now a reclusive, historical hotel. Romantic courtyard gardens, marble baths, and a pool pamper guests. Whitewashed hallways gleam with traditional azulejos, and glazed brick floors cool the heat of summer. Nothing disturbs this pastoral estate but muted songs of birds and melodious tinkling bells of grazing sheep. In a golden light that lingers long into the evening, views from the hills stretch some 30 miles out -- and back as many centuries. Eucalyptus perfumes the air, and cork trees stir in breezes kissed by a distant sea.

Sao Paulo's guests are conveniently close to the nearby pottery centers of Redondo and Estremoz. Pottery in Portugal's Alentejo region has undergone a revival; and there are now some 200 professional potters, up from only 50 in the 1940’s. Estremoz is the historic center for the region’s red clay earthenware. Here, artists preserve the folk art of clay figurines called bonecos, or dolls. The Municipal Museum's collection of these 18^th and 19^th century figures, which include nativity scenes and allegorical figures, is impressive.

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